The last couple of days I was in Tete Batu, in the deep heart of Lombok, under the Rinjani vulcanoe. I was lodging in a traditional house with a view on the mountain. I spent some time reading and praying. After three days I grew tired of the mosquitoes, the sawahs (rice fields) and the rain forest, so I figured it was time to go to the seaside. So early this morning I headed off to Gili Trawagang. The small island is the most proto-typical sun and sea tourist resort I've ever seen: white beaches, blue sea, and palm trees. The shops along the boulevard even sell magic mushrooms! (I thought I was in conservative Indonesia...) But again, there's a world of difference between the fancy sea boulevard and the parallell dirt roads.